Prefer steak, chicken, pasta, pizza with wine, so I was surprised how much I enjoyed the food served with the wine tasting here (the Hacienda tasting).
It celebrates what agrarian California can do through the lens of one farm.Cool, mellow Sonoma vibe and excellent food.
“It furthers this idea of showcasing and celebrating our farm: in one place you can sit in this 160-year-old hacienda, be drinking wine that’s grown right out front and eating vegetables that are grown fifty feet away. As much as the program is about collaborating with top culinary talent-Ashley Christensen, the James Beard–award winning chef of Raleigh’s Poole’s Diner is a recent example-Mariani says it’s the ideal means of featuring Scribe’s viticulture and hospitality. “You can rebuild structures, but the hacienda itself, given its history and its materials, the patina that the building has-which was part of the direction we went with the renovation, to preserve and promote those elements-those things you could never re-create.” The hacienda’s narrow survival meant the Marianis could continue its flourishing guest-chef program, bringing in world-renowned culinary minds to complement Scribe’s impressive spate of Rieslings, Syrahs and skin-fermented Chardonnay. As his plane descended into cell service, he discovered that an off-duty fire truck two hours south of Scribe, in the Mariani family seat of Santa Clara, had arrived to spare the winery’s structures in what felt like “agrarian karma.” Ten hours into the blaze, Adam Mariani didn’t know whether the hacienda’s story was at its conclusion. (FROM LEFT) A view of the vineyards from inside the hacienda. “The result is a living palimpsest that evokes more of the mystery that pervades much of the property.” “The overarching goal was to uncover old layers and carefully add new ones in a way that gives legibility to the hacienda’s evolution and to enable it to begin to tell its own story,” Darling says.
SCRIBE WINERY FIRE CRACKED
Where walls might have been refinished, Darling and contractor Bill Shaeffer left them cracked attic beams burned by a kitchen fire decades prior were left as charred ushers to the hacienda’s storytelling room. The four-year restoration reflected the Marianis’ preservationist approach to winemaking: the hacienda, like the grapes growing outside, already had everything it needed to be Scribe’s architectural vintage. “Despite that, they saw it as the symbolic soul of the property and felt a strong obligation and passion for its preservation.” “It was thought to be prohibitively expensive to preserve,” Darling says. When they decided on a complete renovation they turned to David Darling of San Francisco’s Aidlin Darling Design, who called the project internally controversial. Still, the brothers embraced the shabby, neo-Spanish colonial and its vaguely Moorish features, playing host to gatherings of grown-on-site produce and stand-in beer while they awaited their first harvests. The farm’s architectural centerpiece, a 160-year-old homestead built in the 1850s and refaced in 1915, was uninhabitable when the Marianis assumed ownership. Applying their passion for farming and a bit of knowledge gleaned from stints on South African and European vineyards, the brothers purchased the property in 2007, took a year to prepare the ground, and started planting vines.īeauty in imperfection: Many of the original finishes and details were preserved during the restoration. Mariani and his brother, Andrew, fourth-generation farmers “enamored with agrarian California,” eschewed the family walnut business and turned their sights to a rundown turkey farm they believed had potential. “But then as you approach the runway you’re dreading when your cellphone kicks back into reception and you get all the messages that will tell your fate.” “You’re just wishing the plane would go faster so you can finally get on the ground and see what’s going on,” he says. Helpless and unoccupied, those six hours were some of the longest of Mariani’s life. By their end, the October 2017 fires would claim 44 lives and nearly 9,000 structures-the most destructive in history until this year’s Camp Fire blaze began wreaking havoc in Feather River Canyon. Much of Northern California had already burned. With the fire at Scribe's doorstep, an off-duty fire truck arrived and saved the property from certain demolition.
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